Producteur: Rayas
Cette verticale de Rayas avait au programme quatre millésimes de ce grand Châteauneuf, qui étaient comparés aux autres vins produits par Emmanuel Reynaud, neveu du légendaire Jacques Reynaud, à qui il a succédé en 1997.
Rayas est un châteauneuf du pape très particulier, entièrement à base de grenache, produit dans la partie septentrionale de l'appellation, sur des sols sablonneux dépourvus des fameux galets. C'est un vin de grande finesse et élégance, d'une complexité remarquable même en jeunesse.
Sur le millésime 2004, le Rayas était comparé au Fonsalette, un Côte du Rhône que la famille Reynaud produit sur une vigne située à une quarantaine de kilomètres au nord de Rayas, ainsi qu'au Barbe Rac, de Chapoutier, un autre châteauneuf entièrement à base de grenache.
Sur le millésime 2005, Rayas et Fonsalette étaient comparés au Château de Pignan, autre châteauneuf du pape produit par la Emmanuel Reynaud, qui n'est pas le deuxième vin de Rayas car il est produit à partir de parcelles différentes, situées en proximité de celles du grand vin, même si plusieurs experts doutent que dans les chais de Rayas il y ait une certaine promiscuité entre les cuves qui viennent embouteillées avec l'étiquette de Pignan et celles qui donnent le vin de Rayas.
Malheureusement, la dégustation a commencé sur un faux pas, la bouteille de Rayas 2001 étant défectueuse. Nous nous sommes alors repliés sur l'excellent 2003, qui faisait preuve d'une grande finesse malgré la chaleur du millésime.
Dans le volet des 2004, il n'y a pratiquement jamais eu de lutte entre les vins. Rayas a remporté cette comparaison à l'aveugle à l'unanimité avec 14 votes sur 14.
Les surprises sont arrivées dans le troisième volet, alors qu'une majorité des membres du panel a préféré le vin #3, croyant qu'il s'agisse du Rayas. Hélas, c'était son petit frère, le Pignan. Le vrai Rayas trônait dans le verre #1 et il se distinguait nettement par sa jeunesse et sa pureté de fruit remarquable. Il faut dire, toutefois, que le Pignan avait un caractère très évocateur de ce que Rayas peut donner après quelques années de bouteille. Finalement, un bon mot pour le Fonsalette, un des Côtes du Rhône génériques les plus chers sur le marché, mais qui est d'une qualité irréprochable.
Châteauneuf du Pape 2003, Château Rayas
Rubis-grenat, saturation moyenne. Superbe nez, offrant un très beau mélange floral-épicé, très typique de Rayas, avec des notes de griotte, de cèdre, de liqueur d'herbes, quelque nuancées faisandées, très complexe. La bouche est suave, d'une belle chair, dodue, harmonieuse, avec des saveurs de griotte acidulée, de prune fraîche, d'épices, de réglisse, d'herbes, beaucoup de finesse, d'élégance et une étonnante fraîcheur pour un 2003. Vraiment très réussi!
(**** ½ - avr./10 - Fed)
VOLET #1
Verre #1 – Rayas 14 votes
Verre #2 – Fonsalette 0 votes
Verre #3 – Barbe Rac 0 votes
Châteauneuf du Pape 2004, Château Rayas
Rubis-grenat, bonne saturation. Plutôt discret, avec des arômes de cerise, d'épices, des accents floraux très typés, une pointe d'olive provençale, belle fraîcheur. Bouche élégante, de corps moyen, finement épicée, poivrée, tannins très fins, serrés, saveurs de cerise, d'épices, avec une finale de griotte aux relents vaporeux, floraux.
(**** @ **** ½ - avr./10 - Fed)
Côtes du Rhône 2004, Château Fonsalette
Rubis-grenat, très bonne saturation. Bon nez de cerise mûre, kirsch, épices, poivre, cuir, un caractère discrètement provençal avec une discrète austérité. Bouche de bonne matière, dense, veloutée, épicée, poivrée, très côtes du Rhône, avec une finale un brin alcooleuse.
(*** ½ - avr./10 - Fed)
Châteauneuf du Pape "Barbe Rac" 2004 Chapoutier
Rubis, bonne saturation. Très mûr, avec un caractère de liqueur de prunes et de cerises, sur un fond réglissé, goudronné. La bouche est dense, dotée d'une trame tannique serrée, assez ferme, des saveurs d'épices, de prune mûre, de réglisse, de goudron, plutôt alcooleux, chaud, avec une finale persistante, chaleureuse.
(*** ½ - avr./10 - Fed)
VOLET #2
Verre #1 – Rayas 3 votes
Verre #2 – Fonsalette 2 votes
Verre #3 – Pignan 9 votes
Châteauneuf du Pape 2005, Château Rayas
Rubis, bonne saturation. Le nez offre un caractère surprenant, mettant de l'avant une pureté de fruit remarquable, sur des notes de cerise juteuse, de belle fraîcheur, évolue lentement mais très positivement, acquérant éventuellement une subtile fraîcheur florale épicée plus caractéristique de Rayas. La bouche est ample, de belle matière, avec un très beau fruit de cerise, mûre, juteuse, des accents de lavande, herbes provençales, épices, poivre, des tannins très fins, polis et une longue finale de cerise et d'épices. Sublime!
(**** ½ - avr./10 - Fed)
Côtes du Rhône 2005, Château Fonsalette
Rubis, très bonne saturation. Discret, notes de kirsch, d'épices, de poivre et de cuir. Bouche ample, de bonne matière, un fruité généreux, cerise noire, épices, poivre, persistant. Très réussi.
(*** ½ @ **** - avr./10 - Fed)
Châteauneuf du Pape 2005, Château Pignan
Rubis, bonne saturation, reflets grenat. Discret, fin, avec des arômes de cèdre, d'épices, finement poivré, complexe, évolue très bien dans le verre et gagne des fines nuances florales. Bouche élégante, épicée, poivrée, très provençale, avec une trame soyeuse qui se resserre en arrière palais, bonne finale vaporeuse aux nuances épicées.
(**** - avr./10 - Fed)
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