Producteur: Bodegas Muga
Juan Muga fait partie de la troisième génération à diriger l'entreprise familiale fondée par son grand-père en 1932. En écoutant le discours de ce sympathique gaillard, on finit par se convaincre que la Bodega Muga est un synonyme de la plus pure tradition riojane. En effet, c'est une des seules Bodegas espagnoles à posséder sa propre tonnellerie. En fait, comme chez Muga toutes les étapes de la production ont lieu dans des récipients de chêne, ils produisent aussi leurs propres cuves, poussant ainsi encore plus loin le respect des traditions. Aussi, tous les soutirages viennent effectués par gravité et les vins ne sont pas filtrés, mais collés au blanc d'œuf, processus dans lequel passent plus de 80000 œufs par an.Paradoxalement, tout le souci du respect des traditions semble prendre le bord quand on déguste les meilleurs vins proposés par Juan Muga. En effet, au fur et à mesure qu'on monte dans la hiérarchie de sa production, on se rend compte que la tradition laisse graduellement sa place au modernisme. Le zénith de cette progression vers le renouveau est le "Aro," un rioja imposant qui s'est mérité les plus hauts pointages dans la presse spécialisée. Le "Aro" est un vin de grande profondeur et de structure qui subit un élevage de 18 mois en barriques neuves de chêne français. Un peu le même traitement que reçoit un grand classique de la maison, le Torre Muga. Tout le contraire pour le Prado Enea, l'autre grand classique de la bodega, qui reçoit un traitement beaucoup plus traditionnel, passant 12 mois en tonneaux, puis 36 mois en fûts de chêne américain et ensuite un autre 36 mois en bouteille, avant d'être commercialisé.
Juan Muga précise que le virage vers des vins comme le "Torre Muga" (premier millésime en 1991) et le "Aro" (premier millésime en 2000) a été imposé par le marché. L'importance de ces vins, que la Bodegas produit quasiment à perte aux dires de Juan (difficile à croire quand le prix du "Aro" atteint 182$ à la SAQ), est de donner à l'entreprise une image de marque sur le marché international. Connaissant certains mécanismes du marketing, on ne pourrait lui donner tort. Toutefois, en tant que consommateur averti, je me sens beaucoup mieux servi par trois bouteilles de l'excellent "Prado Enea" 2001, plutôt qu'une bouteille du tout aussi réussi "Aro."
en blanc
Rioja blanco 2008, Muga (SAQ 860 189 – 17,50$)
Issu essentiellement du cépage viura (90%), avec un peu de malvasia, ce blanc de Rioja est élevé en barriques neuves de chêne français pendant quatre mois, avec bâtonnage léger des lies. Son nez est discret, d'une subtile minéralité, avec des fines nuances d'agrumes. La bouche est d'une étonnante fraîcheur, avec une très saine acidité et des stimulantes notes citronnées. Très bien fait pour le prix.
(*** @ *** ½ - oct./09 - Fed)
en rougeRioja Reserva 2005, Muga (SAQ 855 007 – 24,20$)
Rubis, très bonne saturation. Mûr, chaud, avec des notes de prune, de goudron, ainsi que des subtiles nuances poivrées, animales, terreuses. La bouche est d'assez bonne densité, épicée, de belle acidité, légère astringence, avec des saveurs de prune aux accents poivrées.
(*** - oct./09 - Fed)Rioja Seleccion Especial 2004, Muga (SAQ 11155593 – 41,50$)
Rubis, très bonne saturation. Discret, profond, d'une subtile minéralité, réglissé, aux nuances animales, évoluant vers une douceur boisée aux relents de sucre brun. Bouche discrète, élégante, à la trame serrée, d'une légère astringence, bonne acidité, avec des saveurs de prune fraîche et une discrète minéralité qui persiste en fin de bouche. Sa structure et son acidité devraient lui permettre de vieillir avec beauté.
(*** ½ - oct./09 - Fed)Rioja Gran Reserva "Prado Enea" 2001, Muga (SAQ 11169670 – 57,00$)
Après 12 mois en tonneaux de chêne, 36 mois en fûts de chêne américain et un autre 36 mois de bouteille, ce vin est finalement commercialisé, alors qu'il commence à atteindre son plateau de maturité, comme le veut la plus pure tradition de rioja. Rubis, de très bonne saturation, aux reflets grenat sur le pourtour. Superbe nez, ample, profond, complexe, aux nuances de basse-cour qui côtoient une sublime finesse florale et notes de petits fruits rouges acidulés, avec des nuances boisées, graphitées, qui compliquent ultérieurement le tout. La bouche est ample, veloutée, d'une très saine acidité, mêlant les saveurs de petits fruits rouges acidulés aux accents boisés très fins. Peut-être le meilleur Prado Enea jamais produit, un excellent rioja qui fait très peu de concessions à la modernité et offre élégance, fraîcheur et complexité.
(**** @ **** ½ - oct./09 - Fed)Rioja "Torre Muga" 2005, Muga (SAQ 11168183 – 84,25$)
Dès 1991, pour satisfaire les exigences du marché, la maison Muga décide de produire un rioja plus moderne. Le Torre Muga est donc créé, issu de vignes à 550 mètres d'altitude, d'un âge moyen de plus de 60 ans, d'une récolte sévèrement triée pour ne retenir que les meilleurs raisins, dont le jus sera fermenté en tonneaux, avec une longue macération et un élevage de 18 mois en barriques neuves de chêne français. Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation. Très beau nez, profond, suave, mélangeant les notes boisées aux arômes de fruits noirs crémeux, d'une belle fraîcheur, avec des nuances de mine de plomb et un caractère vaporeux de camphre et de menthol. La bouche est dense, de très bonne matière, soutenue par une structure tannique ferme mais raffinée, animée par une acidité stimulante, beaucoup de fraîcheur, des saveurs de fruits noirs de très bonne concentration et une longue finale minérale. Excellent!
(**** @ **** ½ - oct./09 - Fed)Rioja "Aro" 2005, Muga (SAQ 10916522 – 182,00$)
Produit uniquement en 5000 exemplaires, le Aro est un vin qui cherche à pousser l'exercice de la modernité à l'extrême et sert, de l'aveu de Juan Muga lui-même, à rehausser l'image de marque de la maison Muga. Pourpre, opaque, profond, offrant un mélange discret de notes de fruits noirs, de subtiles nuances animales et de notes de chêne neuf, avec les nuances fumées, graphitées, mentholées qui le caractérisent. La bouche est plutôt massive, dense et puissamment structurée, avec des tannins fermes, astringents, mais fins et bien enveloppés, de saveurs de fruits noirs, mûrs, frais, se mêlant à des notes boisées et une profonde minéralité. Un vin très complet, qui assume bien son style très moderne. Il ne vaut certainement pas deux fois le prix que l'excellent Torre Muga, mais la rareté a toujours un prix
(**** @ **** ½ - oct./09 - Fed)
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