CR: Bourgogne 2006 blancs et rouges
Cette dégustation était notre dernière évaluation du millésime 2006, qui nous avait déjà séduit à quelques reprises dans le passé, plus avec ses blancs qu'avec ses rouges. Les deux couleurs étaient sur la table, question de confirmer nos premières impressions et de suivre leur évolution plus d'un an après notre premier impact avec ces vins.Les blancs se sont montrés encore une fois très mûrs et séduisants, mais plusieurs dégustateurs ont remarqué qu'il semblent avoir gagné un caractère plus sucré, un aspect que les vins dégustés l'an dernier ne montraient pas. Un vin a nettement dominé le volet: le splendide Meursault "les poruzots" de Henri Boillot.
Les rouges offerts en dégustation venaient uniquement de la Côte de Nuits (les 2006 de Beaune dégustés l'an dernier ne nous avaient pas trop convaincus) et comprenaient trois vins classés grand cru, qui avaient la tâche, apparemment facile, de défendre leur rang devant un simple vin de village. Ce n'est pas la première fois que le pedigree de grands vins est remis en question pas une dégustation à l'aveugle et ce n'est pas la première fois, non plus, que le vin de rang inférieur surprend tout le monde en remportant la dégustation. J'imagine qu'il ne faudrait même pas trop s'étonner du fait que la victoire fut si écrasante! En effet, le Gevrey Chambertin vieilles vignes de Mortet a remporté autant de votes que les autres trois vins réunis! Il faut quand même souligner que, malgré leur statut différent, l'écart de prix entre les quatre vins est relativement négligeable. Aussi, personnellement, je serais plutôt propice à investir sur l'excellent Chambertin de Rossignol Trapet qui, dans cette dégustation, a probablement été pénalisé par sa sévérité de jeunesse, mais devrait toutefois réserver de très belles satisfactions dans le futur.
Bref, vous trouverez ci-bas les résultats de la dégustation, ainsi que mes notes sur les vins.
en blanc
Verre #1 – Gagnard - Chassagne "les caillerets" 1 vote
Verre #2 – Déleger - Chassagne "en remilly" 4 votes
Verre #3 – Grivault - Meursault "Clos des Perrières" 1 vote
Verre #4 – Boillot - Meursault "les Poruzots" 8 votes
Chassagne Montrachet 1er cru "les caillerets" 2006, J. N. Gagnard LCBO - 97,00$
Belle robe dorée. Nez intense, chimique, avec des arômes de banane mûre, de sucre brun, aux nuances résineuses. Bouche ample, très mûre, dense et d'excellente concentration, avec un profil plutôt exotique, d'ananas mûr, aux relents de cassonade, d'épices et de pain grillé, qui évoquent certains rhums bruns, aboutissant en une finale brûlante, très alcooleuse. Un vin atypique et un brin disjoncté. À ce prix, je passe sans hésiter!
(*** - nov./09 - Fed)Chassagne Montrachet 1er cru "en remilly" 2006, Colin Deleger (LCBO 110536 - 99,00$)
Robe dorée aux reflets verdâtres. Finement boisé, aux nuances de vanille, de limette, de fleurs et de feuillus, sur un fond minéral assez distingué. Ample, pur, de belle fraîcheur, avec des saveurs de fruits blancs et une minéralité persistante. Dommage que la fin de bouche soit un peu douceâtre et molle.
(*** ½ - nov./09 - Fed)Meursault 1er cru "Clos des Perrières" 2006, Grivault (SAQ 713727 - 99,00 $)
Rube cristalline, aux reflets verdâtres. Très pur, avec des arômes très subtils de champignons shiitakes, sur un fond minéral, fumé, salin, développant des arômes d'agrumes confits après une certaine oxygénation. Bouche ample, onctueuse, très équilibrée, d'une acidité stimulante en avant palais, étalant une très belle maturité de fruit, un brin sucré et chaleureux en fin de bouche.
(*** ½ - nov./09 - Fed)Meursault 1er cru "les Poruzots" 2006, Henri Boillot LCBO 110551 - 129,00$)
Robe dorée, assez soutenue. Magnifique nez, d'un boisé somptueux, très raffiné, parfaitement dosé, avec des arômes fumés, de pierre à fusil, des nuances délectables de crème de citron et d'amande grillée; il se fait de plus en plus minéral en évoluant dans le verre, manifestant ainsi toute sa race. La bouche est ample, soutenue par une acidité vibrante, qui lui confère beaucoup de définition et de fraîcheur, les saveurs d'agrumes s'adoucissent de relents vanillés sans jamais tomber dans les excès de flatterie, aboutissant en une finale minérale de belle précision. Ça commence à être cher pour un premier cru, mais c'est du grand bourgogne!
(**** ½ - nov./09 - Fed)
en rouge
Verre #1 - Château de la Tour - Clos de Vougeot v.v. 4 votes
Verre #2 - Armand Rousseau - Clos de la Roche 1 vote
Verre #3 - Rossignol Trapet – Chambertin 2 votes
Verre #4 - Denis Mortet - Gevrey Chambertin v. v. 7 votes
Clos de Vougeot vieilles vignes grand cru 2006, Château de La Tour LCBO 702316 - 165,00$
Rubis, profond, bonne saturation. Très beau nez, parfumé, fin, offrant des arômes d'épices fines, de poivre blanc, de bois de santal, avec des nuances boisées plus sucrées, sur un fond minéral. La bouche est de corps moyen, avec une trame serrée, aux tannins fins, légèrement astringents, aboutissant en une bonne finale minérale. Les limites du millésime sont perceptibles, mais ça reste un très beau bourgogne.
(**** - nov./09 - Fed)Clos de la Roche grand cru 2006, Armand Rousseau LCBO - 139,00$
Rubis, bonne saturation. Nez plutôt discret, offrant un mélange de cerise sucrée et d'arômes boisés plutôt doux, aux relents de cassonade. La bouche est de corps léger à moyen, tout en finesse et en subtilité, fluide, avec une délicate astringence sur le palais et une finale très subtile aux relents de cerise de terre. Élégant, mais il faut espérer qu'il mettra un peu plus de poids en vieillissant!
(*** ½ @ **** - nov./09 - Fed)Chambertin grand cru 2006, Rossignol Trapet SAQ 11029811 - 164,00$
Rubis, profond, bonne saturation. Beau nez, bien boisé, mêlant des arômes de mine de plomb à des nuances florales et poivrées, avec des traits plus masculins de bacon et de menthol; un ténor, mais avec de la finesse. La bouche fait preuve d'un peu plus de rudesse, animée par une acidité soutenue et une trame tannique ferme et astringente, ainsi qu'une amertume qui semble venir d'une certaine verdeur, éléments qui vont exiger de la patience de la part de ceux qui possèdent de ce vin. La belle finale minérale, aux relents de cerise acidulée, est une sorte de réconciliation après la sévérité du milieu de palais et laisse un solide gage d'espoir pour le futur.
(**** @ **** ½ - nov./09 - Fed)Gevrey Chambertin vieilles vignes 2006, Denis Mortet (SAQ 10953121 - 137,75$)
Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation. Nez fermé, un peu unidimensionnel, avec des notes de framboises, mûres, sur un fond minéral, il évolue vers la prune. La bouche est ample, mûre, d'une matière enviable pour un 2006, assez plein, avec des tannins légèrement mordants, des saveurs de cerise sucrée, d'épices, avec des traces minérales qui persistent. Ce sera sûrement très intéressant un fois qu'il aura atteint sa pleine maturité.
(**** - nov./09 - Fed)
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