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CR: Espagne


Trois volets couvrant autant de millésimes récents, question de remettre nos papilles à l'heure avec ce qui se fait de mieux en Espagne de nos jours.

La première conclusion est la plus facile: les producteurs espagnols semblent tous avoir épousé un style plus moderne, basé sur des vins plus colorés, plus mûrs et plus riches. Un style qui, surtout dans une région comme la Rioja, est en direct contraste avec ce qui se faisait dans le passé. Toutefois, à part un brin de nostalgie, notre panel a du convenir du fait que la qualité des vins était remarquable et très homogène.

Chaque volet a été dominé par un vin. Toutefois, dans aucun cas il y a eu de vins qui défiguraient face à la concurrence, même quand la différence de prix entre un vin et l'autre allait du simple au double, voir même au triple!

Quant aux millésimes, on a eu des très beaux vins dans les trois volets, mais la qualité et l'homogénéité du dernier trio donne un net avantage aux 2004.

Vous trouverez ci-bas les résultats de la dégustation, ainsi que mes notes sur les vins.

 

Volet #1

Bodegas Los Astrales - Astrales              1 vote
Conte Delgado y otros  - Neo                    6 votes
Palacios - Moncerbal                                   9 votes


Ribera del Duero Astrales 2006, Bodegas Los Astrales (SAQ 11012429 - 52,50$)
Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation. Boisé, finement fumé, aux nuances de moka, sur un fond de prune fraîche et de fruits noirs. La bouche est ample et de bonne matière, dense mais d'une belle fluidité, avec des tannins légèrement astringents en milieu de palais, bonne acidité, avec des saveurs de prune et de chocolat qui persistent dans la bonne finale.
(*** ½ @ **** - nov./09 - Fed)

Ribera del Duero Neo 2006, Conte Delgado y otros  (SAQ 11012120 - 47,75$)
Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation. Premier nez plutôt fumé, aux nuances d'encens, très discrètement sulfureux, sur un fond de fruits noirs acidulés, de prune et de moka. Bouche de très bonne matière, ample, dense, soutenu par une structure assez ferme mais bien enrobée, avec des saveurs de fruits noirs qui s'allongent en une très bonne finale aux relents minéraux.
(**** - nov./09 - Fed)

Bierzo Corullòn "Moncerbal" 2006, Desciendentes J. Palacios (SAQ 11100277 - 108,00$)
Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation, auréole translucide. Le nez est une explosion d'arômes épicés, aux nuances de poivre frais moulu, qui gagnent des parfums floraux exotiques, sur un fond de fruits noirs, mûrs, crémeux, chocolatés. La bouche est très dense, d'une matière mûre, riche, presque sucrée, mais parfaitement harmonieuse, même en considérant la chaleur de ses 16,5 degrés d'alcool, la structure est si bien enrobée qu'on la perçoit à peine, la concentration des saveurs est excellente, avec des accents de mûres et de chocolat fondant, s'allongeant en une finale de grande longueur. L'exubérance du nez pourrait devenir lassante et la souplesse de sa structure pourrait ne pas être idéale pour la longue garde, mais il y a beaucoup de facteurs qui font de ce Moncerbal un vin de grande envergure.
(**** @ **** ½ - nov./09 - Fed)

 

Volet #2

Cellier Melis - Melis                      1 vote    
Finca Villacreces                          2 votes
Finca Allende - Calvario             13 votes


Priorat Melis 2005, Cellier Melis (SAQ 10974116 - 136,00$)
Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation. Joli nez de kirsch, d'épices et d'herbes aromatiques, très frais, avec des nuances alcooleuses, un brin chimiques. Bouche assez puissante, légèrement alcooleuse, tannins serrés, sans dureté, avec des saveurs de cerise et de réglisse, presque de goudron, s'allongeant dans la longue finale aux relents reglissés.
(*** ½ @ **** - nov./09 - Fed)

Ribera del Duero 2005, Finca Villacreces (SAQ - 44,00$)
Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation. Profond, aux arômes de prune et de pain aux raisins, sur un fond minéral qui lui donne un air assez sérieux. Bouche ample, dense, assez fluide, tannins fins, bien enveloppés, assez élégant, réglissé, minéral, persistant. Il s'assouplit assez rapidement dans le verre, ce qui semble indiquer qu'il sera accessible relativement jeune.
(*** ½ - nov./09 - Fed)

Rioja Calvario 2005, Finca Allende (SAQ 11031056 - 137,25$)
Pourpre, très bonne saturation. Très beau nez, profond mais d'une belle fraîcheur, offrant des arômes fruits noirs, auxquels s'entremêlent des nuances graphitées, de mine de plomb, de cola. La bouche est ample, veloutée, d'une très belle matière, élégante et de bonne fraîcheur, avec des saveurs de liqueur de cerise, de fruits noirs, aux traces de graphite et de cola, trame serrée, de bonne finesse, avec des saveurs de fruits noirs et de minéral qui persistent dans la longue finale. Très cher, mais franchement superbe!
(**** @ **** ½ - nov./09 - Fed)

 


Volet #3

Bodegas Lan - Culmen              6 votes
Bodegas Roda - Roda I            0 votes
Domaine Ygay - Dalmau         10 votes


Rioja Culmen 2004, Bodegas Lan (SAQ 88,00$)
L'assemblage de ce vin comprend 85 % de tempranillo, 15% de graciano et 5% de mazuelo. J'ai dû vérifier car son nez possédait une note de poivron tellement nette qu'on aurait cru du bordeaux par moment. Rubis-pourpre, de très bonne saturation. Il se présente avec un nez d'une fraîcheur très agréable, aux nuances de poivron  et de fruits noirs, très purs et crémeux, cassis, cerise noire très mûre, confite, avec des accents de poulailler qui vont et viennent. Belle bouche, ample, dense, mais fluide et très élégante, avec des saveurs de cassis et de cerise noire, d'excellente concentration, souple, harmonieux, long. Dans l'ensemble, ce Culmen possède une fraîcheur, une élégance et un profil aromatique qui le rendent presque bordelais, mais la maturité et l'éclat de son fruit révèlent ses vraies origines. Un vin vraiment très réussi!
(**** @ **** ½ - nov./09 - Fed)

Rioja Reserva Roda I 2004, Bodegas Roda (SAQ 10959194 – 81,25$)
Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation. Discrètement boisé, d'une douceur vanillée presque crémeuse, aux nuances de moka, sur un fond très discret de cerise noire et d'épices. Bouche dense, glycérinée, assez élégante, avec une matière fruitée d'excellente concentration, aux relents de moka, d'épices et de graphite, tannins finement astringents, longue finale. Un vin très complet.
(**** - nov./09 - Fed)

Rioja Dalmau 2004, Domaine Ygay (SAQ 11169881 - 109,00$)
Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation. Beau nez, racé, profond, offrant des arômes épicés, subtilement boisés, sur un fond de cerise noire et de prune. La bouche est dense, glycérinée, plutôt élégante, avec des tannins légèrement astringents, des saveurs de prune fraîche et d'épices, très bonne concentration et persistance. Un vin de facture moderne, qui n'a pas complètement oublié ses traditions.
(**** - nov./09 - Fed)


 

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