CR: Châteauneuf du Pape 2006
Cette évaluation de la vendange 2006 en châteauneuf du pape, repartie sur deux volets, avec certains des meilleurs vins du millésime, nous a permis de constater de l'excellente harmonie des vins, de leur élégance, même pour les exemplaires plus puissants, ainsi que de la finesse de leurs structures.Le premier volet était remarquable pour la qualité et l'homogénéité des vins qui, toutefois, semblaient ne pas être au maximum de leur expressivité. Le plus coté des vins, le Clos des Papes, a encore une fois fait mouche! Pas qu'il soit mauvais, loin de là! Mais on dirait qu'il passe moins bien en dégustation, peut-être en raison de sa souplesse un peu bourguignonne. Bref, le volet a été largement dominé par un vin qui obtient souvent beaucoup de succès auprès de notre panel, le Vieux Donjon.
Autre volet, autre grand flop du vin vedette, le "Deus ex machina" du Clos Saint Jean (99% R.P.), qui n'a obtenu aucun vote de préférence. Le volet a été dominé par la "Cuvée Spéciale" de Tardieu Laurent, quoique les vins de La Janasse, surtout la cuvée "vieilles vignes," étaient tout à fait remarquables par leur profondeur et leur pureté et méritaient, à mon humble avis, quelques votes de plus.
Premier volet
Verre #1 – Clos des Papes 2 votes
Verre #2 – Charvin 0 votes
Verre #3 – Tardieu-Laurent 1 vote
Verre #4 – Vieux Donjon 11 votes
Châteauneuf du Pape 2006, Clos des Papes
Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation. Très beau nez de kirsch, d'épices, d'herbes. Bouche ample, de bonne matière, glycérinée et savoureuse, assez sphérique et plutôt accessible, avec une trame bien enrobée qui lui donne juste ce qu'il faut de mâche en milieu de palais, des saveurs de kirsch qui aboutissent en une longue finale, subtilement réglissée. Un vin très réussi, dans le style élégant, presque bourguignon, qui a distingué les Clos des Papes des derniers millésimes.
(**** - jan./10 - Fed)Châteauneuf du Pape 2006, Domaine Charvin
Rubis, profond, très bonne saturation. Beau nez, mûr, subtilement viandé, sur un fond de kirsch et d'olive, très caractéristique. Bouche de bonne matière, étonnamment ferme et structurée pour un Charvin, des saveurs de cerise mûre, avec une veine minérale, réglissée qui accompagne le vin jusque dans la longue finale. Excellent!
(**** - jan./10 - Fed)Châteauneuf du Pape 2006, Tardieu-Laurent
Rubis, bel éclat, bonne saturation. Joli nez de cerise mûre, confite, avec des traces boisées, vanillées, discrètes, mais un brin douceâtres. Bouche mûre, très fruitée, légère astringence en milieu de palais, avec des saveurs de cerise sucrée, de réglisse et de vanille. Dans un style un peu racoleur, mais bien fait.
(*** ½ - jan./10 - Fed)Châteauneuf du Pape 2006, Le Vieux Donjon
Rubis, très bonne saturation. Beau nez, mûr, avec des arômes de kirsch, d'herbes, d'épices. Bouche tendue, de belle acidité, avec une trame serrée, s'assouplissant rapidement à l'oxygénation, des saveurs de cerise noire, sucrée, juteuse, une finale minérale-réglissée de bonne persistance.
(**** - jan./10 - Fed)
Deuxième volet
Verre #1 – Janasse - Chaupin 4 votes
Verre #2 – Janasse - Vieilles vignes 2 votes
Verre #3 – Clos St. Jean - Deus Ex Machina 0 votes
Verre #4 – Tardieu - Cuvée spéciale 8 votes
Châteauneuf du Pape "Chaupin" 2006, La Janasse
Pourpre, très bonne saturation. Mûr, profond, discret, avec des arômes de cerise très mûre, aux nuances d'épices et de cola. Bouche de grande ampleur, dense, glycérinée, aux saveurs de kirsch, d'épices, une liqueur de cerise noire en milieu de palais, où les tannins mûrs se resserrent un peu, avec une finale chaleureuse qui persiste. Très généreux.
(**** - jan./10 - Fed)Châteauneuf du Pape "Vieilles vignes" 2006, La Janasse
Pourpre, très bonne saturation. Beau nez, mûr, profond, avec des arômes de liqueur de cerise, d'épices, d'herbes, avec un caractère minéral qui évoque l'asphalte. Bouche de grande ampleur, dense, glycérinée, très mûre, avec un caractère de liqueur de cerise noire, aux nuances d'épices, d'herbes provençales, des tannins mûrs, fournissant une fine astringence, une très longue finale, subtilement réglissée, aux relents de cerise noire. Un châteauneuf pur, profond et voluptueux!
(**** @ **** ½ - jan./10 - Fed)Châteauneuf du Pape "Deux Ex Machina" 2006, Clos Saint Jean
Rubis, terne, très bonne saturation. Profond, mûr, avec des arômes de prune fraîche, sucrée, de cerise et d'herbes, avec des subtiles traces vanillées. Bouche ample, dense, très charnue, glycérinée, épicée, un brin alcooleuse, avec un mélange de cerise et de prune fraîche, des tannins légèrement astringents et une finale chaleureuse. Un vin réussi, mais nettement moins impressionnant que certains critiques le laissaient entendre.
(*** ½ @ **** - jan./10 - Fed)Châteauneuf du Pape "Cuvée spéciale" 2006, Tardieu-Laurent
Rubis, très bonne saturation. Bon nez de prune fraîche, mûre, sucrée, enrobée de nuances de croûte de pain et de vanille. La bouche est ample, charnue, de belle matière, plutôt sphérique, avec des saveurs de cerise, subtilement vanillées, finale légèrement alcooleuse, persistante.
(**** - jan./10 - Fed)
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