CR: Barolo 2004 - acte II
Un deuxième rendez-vous avec les grands nebbiolos du millésime 2004 qui, cette fois-ci, se concentrait uniquement sur le barolo. Dès notre première analyse (octobre 2009), nous avions pu constater de la qualité de vins de ce millésime, qui offre de très belles réussites, quoique dans l'ensemble il ne soit pas au niveau de 2001.Le premier volet nous offrait une intéressante comparaison entre deux vins issus du cru "arborina" signés par les frères Renato et Giuliano Corino. Les deux ont totalement dominé le volet et c'est le vin de Giuliano qui a remporté la palme avec une assez bonne marge d'avance.
Le deuxième volet comptait des vins de plusieurs "modernistes" du barolo, dont le cru par excellence de celui qui est peut-être le plus renommé de tous les modernistes, Luciano Sandrone. Son Cannubi Boschis a littéralement éclipsé la compétition au compte des votes, frôlant l'unanimité. Toutefois, il ne faut pas pour autant négliger les très belles réussites des vins de Altare et Azelia.
Verre #1- Prunotto – Bussia 0 votes
Verre #2 - Massolino – Margheria 0 votes
Verre #3 - Corino Renato – Vigna Arborina 5 votes
Verre #4 - Corino Giuliano – Vigna Arborina 9 votes
Barolo "Bussia" 2004, Prunotto (SAQ - $71,00)
Rubis, très bonne saturation, reflets grenat. Mûr, avec des arômes de cerise vanillée, de prune fraîche, d'épices, qui développent un caractère mentholé, réglissé, caoutchouteux. La bouche est dense et assez ferme, avec des tannins un brin rugueux qui lui confèrent une belle mâche, viril, cuiré, minéral, presque ferreux, il possède beaucoup de caractère et une discrète finale réglissée. Un assez belle réussite pour ce vin qui me laisse habituellement sur ma soif.
(*** ½ @ **** - fév./10 - Fed)Barolo "Margheria" 2004, Massolino (LCBO - $89,00)
Rubis, bonne saturation. Nez légèrement douceâtre, avec des arômes de rhubarbe, de prune fraîche, de cuir et d'épices. Bouche assez ample mais peu expressive, avec des tannins assez fermes, plutôt astringents, des accents de tabac, d'épices, dans un ensemble plutôt réticent et aride. Plus qu'une phase fermée on a l'impression d'une œuvre inachevée, mais le temps pourrait me contredire.
(*** - fév./10 - Fed)Barolo "Vigna Arborina" 2004, Corino Renato (LCBO - $65,00)
Rubis-grenat, très bonne saturation. Très beau nez, profond, racé, minéral, une douceur de prune fraîche, belle maturité, avec une fraîcheur finement mentholée. Belle matière, ample et veloutée à l'attaque, une trame plus serrée et ferme en milieu de plais, belle mâche, avec une finale minérale-réglissée très racée et persistante. Très réussi!
(**** - fév./10 - Fed)Barolo "Vigna Arborina" 2004, Corino Giuliano (I.P. - $85,00)
Rubis-grenat, très bonne saturation. Discret, fin, assez complexe, offrant un beau mélange de fruit noir et de floral, de minéral et de tabac blond. Attaque de belle densité, trame tannique assez ferme, presque rude en milieu de palais, mais plutôt bien enrobée, les accents réglissés-minéraux persistent dans la finale très racée. Un barolo élégant, moderne mais néanmoins très typé, qui vieillira à merveille!
(**** @ **** ½ - fév./10 - Fed)
Verre #1 - Altare – La Morra 1 vote
Verre #2 - Grasso – Ginestra Casa Maté 0 votes
Verre #3 - Azelia – Bricco Fiasco 1 vote
Verre #4 - Sandrone – Cannubi Boschis 12 votes
Barolo "La Morra" 2004, Elio Altare (LCBO - $114,00)
Rubis, très bonne saturation. Très beau nez, profond, complexe, très frais, avec des arômes de sous-bois, de minéral et de menthol, un fruit de cerises noires macérées, auquel se mêle un caractère d'anis et de réglisse pure. Bouche très ample, dotée d'un superbe fruit de sirop de cerise noire, des tannins fermes, bien enrobés, une longue finale chaleureuse de chocolat noir. Une grande réussite! Si son vin de base donne ça, j'ose à peine imaginer ce que doivent être ses crus.
(**** @ **** ½ - fév./10 - Fed)Barolo "Ginestra Casa Maté" 2004, Elio Grasso (LCBO - $94,00)
Rubis, bonne saturation. Plutôt fermé, discret, légèrement boisé, il a besoin d'une éternité pour s'ouvrir, mais il finit par offrir un mélange réticent de cerise mûre, vanillée, réglissée. La bouche est de corps moyen, avec une trame tannique astringente, un peu aride, peu de chair autour de l'os, il semble très fermé et aboutit sur une subtile finale réglissée. Un vin qui pourrait éventuellement donner quelque chose d'intéressant, mais il faudra être patients!
(*** ½ - fév./10 - Fed)Barolo "Bricco Fiasco" 2004, Azelia (SAQ 10394111 - 96,50$)
Rubis, très bonne saturation. Premier nez irrésistible, un sirop de cerises mûres, très frais, légèrement confit, floral, avec des accents mentholés, presque résineux, il gagne des nuances de mine de plomb qui lui enlèvent un peu d'authenticité mais ça reste un nez de première classe! La bouche est ample, de très bonne matière, avec une structure solide, à la trame serrée, bien enrobée, des saveurs de cerise noire, de prune fraîche, de réglisse, avec une longue finale chaleureuse. Une très grande réussite.
(**** @ **** ½ - fév./10 - Fed)Barolo "Cannubi Boschis" 2004, Luciano Sandrone (SAQ - $129,00)
Rubis, très bonne saturation. Discret mais profond et très mûr, offrant un caractère de cerises macérées, d'anis, d'épices, avec des traces boisées, légèrement vanillées. La bouche est ample, veloutée, d'une superbe matière à l'attaque, plus ferme en milieu de palais, structurée, des saveurs de cerises macérées, d'anis, de réglisse, qui persistent dans la très longue finale. Un barolo extraordinaire, dans un style très moderne mais harmonieux et soyeux.
(**** ½ - fév./10 - Fed)
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