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CR: Bordeaux 2006


C'est une tâche ingrate que de suivre un millésime de la trempe de 2005!  La vendange de 2006, à Bordeaux, a beau avoir été sauvée par des belles périodes de chaleur au mois de septembre, il reste que le résultat est loin de la qualité que nous offrait le millésime précédent. Les vins, même ceux qui semblent les plus complets, ne possèdent pas la profondeur des meilleurs millésimes.

Dans la sélection qui nous était proposée, c'est le dernier trio, avec les vins de Saint Julien, Pauillac et Saint Estèphe, qui semblait contenir les propositions les plus complètes en termes de plénitude de matière, de structure et de potentiel de garde. Aussi, il me semble opportun de mentionner la sensation de fatigue du palais que j'ai ressenti à la fin de la dégustation. C'est un symptôme qui se présente à l'occurrence quand on tombe sur des vins acidifiés. 

Dans le premier volet, que plusieurs ont qualifié comme le plus faible de la soirée, une majorité des voix s'est exprimée en faveur du vin de La Dominique, assez flatteur, tout comme celui de Figeac, mais peut-être un peu plus expressif pour le moment.

Le deuxième volet semblait placer la barre nettement plus haut, avec des maturités plus achevées, de l'ampleur et plus de profondeur dans les arômes et les saveurs. Une majorité encore plus nette s'est exprimée en faveur du vin de Malescot St. Exupéry, un margaux complet et structuré, qui sera de très bonne garde.

Quoique certains membres de notre panel de dégustation ont exprimé une préférence pour les vins du deuxième volet, je me joins à la majorité qui a été mieux comblée par les vins du dernier trio, plus particulièrement par les deux bijoux de la dégustation: Pichon Baron et Léoville Barton. C'est le dernier des deux, un Barton de qualité exceptionnelle, encore, qui a remporté le volet. Il a été suivi de près par le pauillac (une autre grande réussite) et par un Calon Ségur, très classique et définitivement réussi mais qui ne pouvait s'exprimer favorablement face à une compétition aussi acharnée.

 

1er volet

Verre #1 - La Magdelaine     4 votes
Verre #2 -  Figeac                   2 votes
Verre #3 - La Dominique      7 votes

St. Émilion 2006, Château La Magdelaine – $79,00
Rubis, bonne saturation. Discret, arômes de cerise sucrée, presque confite, de plus en plus chocolaté en évoluant dans le verre. Attaque souple, veloutée, bouche de corps moyen, tannins finement astringents, milieu de palais de concentration moyenne, avec des saveurs chocolatées qui persistent en finale. Ce n'est pas mauvais, mais c'est un peu trop "middle of the road" pour un vin de ce prix.
(*** ½ - oct./09 - Fed)

St. Émilion 2006, Château Figeac  -  $139,00
Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation. Joli nez, discret mais mûr, exprimant des arômes de fruits noirs, doux, presque confits, aux nuances florales, avec des traces boisées subtiles qui se manifestent après une brève évolution dans le verre. La bouche possède une belle densité, avec une matière veloutée, des tannins serrés, bien enveloppés, des saveurs de fruit noir, aux accents graphités, bonne finale de fruit noir. Un Figeac élégant et complet, faisant preuve de plus de plénitude et de fruit que les autres Saint Émilion de ce volet. Belle réussite.
(**** - oct./09 - Fed)

St. Émilion 2006, Château La Dominique  - $59,00
Rubis, très bonne saturation. Premier nez de moka, légèrement grillé, avec une belle fraîcheur florale, et des notes minérales, graphitées. Bonne matière, chair mûre, des tanins légèrement astringents, des belles saveurs fruitées de prune fraîche et de cerise noire, qui se mêlent à des accents minéraux, cuirés. C'est réussi et un très bel achat pour le prix
(***½ @ **** - oct./09 - Fed)

 

2e volet

Verre #1 - Smith Haut Lafitte           4 votes
Verre #2 - Lascombes                       0 votes
Verre #3 - Malescot St. Exupéry      9 votes


Pessac Léognan 2006, Château Smith Haut Lafitte  -  $79,00
Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation. Discret, offrant des notes de moka, discrètement torréfiées, un fruit de cassis et de mûres, aux nuances florales. Ample, dense, doté d'une belle matière, veloutée, savoureuse, à la trame serrée, de bonne concentration, des saveurs de prune fraîche et de minérale, avec une finale crémeuse de chocolat au lait. C'est flatteur, mais il lui manque la profondeur et la complexité qui le distinguent dans les meilleurs millésimes.
(*** ½ @ **** - oct./09 - Fed)

Margaux 2006, Château Lascombes  -  $95,00
Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation. Premier nez de fruit noirs, très surs, il gagne des arômes de moka et de chocolat. Bouche dense, assez souple et accessible, tanins fins, légèrement astringents mais bien enveloppés, peu défini mais d'assez bonne concentration, avec une bonne finale chocolatée.
(*** ½ @ **** - oct./09 - Fed)

Margaux 2006, Château Malescot St. Exupéry   - $69,00
Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation. Beau nez, avec des arômes de fruits noirs, mûrs, crémeux, liqueur de cassis, traversé par une subtile minéralité, ainsi que par des discrètes traces de moka. Bouche pleine et structurée, tannins solides mais bien enveloppés, bonne concentration, cassis, minéralité, finale persistante. Un vin complet, qui sera de bonne garde.
(**** - oct./09 - Fed)

 

3e volet

Verre #1 - Léoville Barton     7 votes
Verre #2 - Calon Ségur          2 votes
Verre #3 - Pichon Baron       4 votes

 

St. Julien 2006, Château Léoville Barton   - $99,00
Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation. Très beau nez, mûr, profond, avec des arômes fruités envoûtants, sirop de cassis, nuances cuirées, minérales, un soupçon de violette qui amène une belle fraîcheur. Bouche dense, droite, structurée, soutenue par des tannins fermes, fins mais astringents, l'acidité lui donne du nerf et de la définition, les saveurs de cassis se fondent dans la longue finale minérale. Une autre belle réussite pour Léoville Barton! Il sera de très longue garde.
(**** @ **** ½ - oct./09 - Fed)

St. Estèphe 2006, Château Calon Ségur  -  $82,00
Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation. Beau nez, mêlant des arômes de cassis et de kirsch à des discrètes nuances de moka, d'épices et de cuir. Bouche de structure très classique, longiligne, de bonne acidité, aux tannins fins, mûrs, des saveurs de cassis acidulé, finement épicées. Un bordeaux très classique et élégant.
(**** - oct./09 - Fed)

Pauillac 2006, Château Pichon Baron   - $135,00
Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation. Splendide nez, profond, minéral, avec des traces boisées, graphitées, qui donnent des nuances de mine de plomb et de fumé aux arômes de liqueur de cassis, pour compléter un bouquet très pauillacquais. La bouche est de bonne matière, structurée, droite, d'une très belle fraîcheur de fruit, saveurs minérales, de cassis acidulé, tannins fins, nobles, longue finale minérale aux nuances de chocolat noir. C'est une superbe réussite, même s'il me laisse l'impression qu'il lui manque quelque chose pour être à la hauteur des meilleurs millésimes de ce cru.
(**** @ **** ½ - oct./09 - Fed)


 

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