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CR: Toscane 2006


En plus de nous offrir un aperçu de quelques grands classiques toscans, sur deux millésimes, à distance de dix ans, cette dégustation avait comme but de nous présenter l'excellent millésime 2006 avec des vins de la trempe du Solaia et du Tignanello.

Le premier volet, avec les vins a maturité, a été illuminé par une très belle performance du Cabreo, qui a remporté la grande majorité de votes.

Cette performance s'est presque répétée au deuxième volet, que le Cabreo aurait bien pu remporter n'eut été de la présence d'un des meilleurs Solaia depuis quelques années.

La qualité extrêmement élevée des vins, ainsi que leur homogénéité, nous a permis de conclure que 2006, en Toscane, a donné les meilleurs vins que nous avions eu la chance de goûter depuis longtemps. En fait, depuis toujours!

 

VOLET #1

Tignanello - Antinori           3 votes
Il borgo- Ruffino                 11 votes
Il Blu - La Brancaia              0 votes*


Tignanello 1996, Antinori
Rubis, bonne saturation, reflets grenat. Très fin, offrant de beaux arômes de chocolat, d'épices, avec des nuances de cuir et de poivron. Bouche souple, encore bien serrée, légèrement astringente, de bonne acidité, avec des saveurs discrètes de cuir et de réglisse qui persistent.
(*** ½ - fév./10 - Fed)

Cabreo "Il borgo" 1996, Ruffino
Rubis-grenat, bonne saturation. Bon nez, cuiré, graphité, très à point. Bouche d'assez bonne matière, avec une trame soyeuse, au grain un peu gros, finement astringent, saveurs de prune et de réglisse de bonne persistance.
(*** ½ - fév./10 - Fed)

Brancaia ''Il Blu'' 1996, La Brancaia
Une bouteille probablement en mauvais état. Le vin semble madérisé à prime abord, avec une pointe d'acidité volatile qui s'estompe, laissant des odeurs de sous-bois et de goudron très marquées. La bouche est aussi en mauvais état, anguleuse et manifestement déclinée.
(* - fév./10 - Fed)

 

VOLET #2

Solaia - Antinori                   8 votes
Il Blu - La Brancaia              0 votes
Il borgo - Folonari                6 votes
Tignanello - Antinori            0 votes

 

Solaia 2006, Antinori (SAQ 10821064 - 239,00$)
Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation. Superbes notes de fruit noir, mûr, crémeux, frais, avec des subtiles traces boisées, mentholées. Très belle matière fruitée, d'excellente concentration, des saveurs de fruit noir, crémeux, chocolaté, une trame soyeuse, bien enrobée, finale de chocolat noir, amer, aux subtiles nuances épicées. Un grand Solaia, qui rachète amplement la qualité moins que spectaculaire des derniers millésimes.
(**** ½ - fév./10 - Fed)

Brancaia ''Il Blu'' 2006 La Brancaia (SAQ 10769622 - 82,25$)
Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation. Très mûr, sirupeux, il possède un caractère très net de liqueur de mûres, de framboise, une superbe maturité de fruit qui est accompagnée d'arômes subtilement herbacés. L'attaque est dense, fluide, élégante, la trame est plus serrée et astringente en milieu de palais, avec une finale chocolatée discrète. C'est très réussi, mais il faudra espérer qu'il gagne du poids en fin de bouche.
(**** - fév./10 - Fed)

Cabreo "Il borgo" 2006, Folonari  (SAQ 10506081 - 55,25$)
Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation. Très mûr, crémeux, avec des arômes de fruit noir et d'épices qui possèdent des traces boisées, lactiques, assez nettes. L'attaque est dense, glycérinée, assez souple et sphérique, avec une trame plus astringente en milieu de palais, des saveurs de fruit noir, d'épices, de chocolat noir, de l'amertume et un caractère réglissé s'allongent en finale.
(**** - fév./10 - Fed)

Tignanello 2006, Antinori (SAQ 10820900 - 99,00$)
Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation. Beau nez, complexe, offrant des arômes de fruits rouges acidulés, aux nuances de cuir et de cheval, avec des traces boisées subtilement grillées. La bouche est dense, d'une matière glycérinée, dotée d'une trame tannique ferme, serrée, de saveurs de fruit noir, de réglisse et de chocolat qui persistent. Un vin bien construit, qui devrait bien évoluer.  
(**** - fév./10 - Fed)

 

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