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CR: Châteauneuf du Pape 2005

 

Nous avions déjà eu un premier impact très positif avec les châteauneufs du millésime 2005 en mars dernier, alors que notre panel avait été littéralement renversé par une cuvée "Deus Ex-machina" (Clos St. Jean) presque parfaite!  Ce deuxième rendez-vous avait donc la tâche de confirmer la qualité du millésime dans cette grande appellation rhodanienne. Et les attentes n'ont pas été déçues! La maturité, la densité des matières, la profondeur des vins, étaient dans tous les cas dignes des meilleurs millésimes. Il faut aussi souligner que, heureusement, l'harmonie des vins était rarement affectée par des excès de chaleur alcoolique.

Dès le premier volet, des vins comme Pégau, Clos des Papes et la cuvée "les quartz" du Domaine de Caillou plaçaient la barre bien haute! Le grand gagnant du volet, a été le Pégau, un vin flatteur et très complet, qui a jouit de l'avantage d'être dégusté à un moment favorable par rapport à un ténor beaucoup plus profond et imposant comme "les quartz." Clos des Papes, complexe et très sphérique, n'a pas fait l'unanimité mais il a ravi plusieurs dégustateurs. Le Mont Redon, peut-être un peu trop vanillé et flatteur en ce moment, a souffert de la comparaison avec des vins plus complets.

Les vins du deuxième volet se sont révélés un peu plus exigeants à déguster, avec des matières plus chargées et une chaleur parfois un peu plus marquée. La cuvée vieilles vignes de Tardieu Laurent a remporté le volet haut la main, grâce à son boisé fin et son fruité pur, qui lui auront  permis de laisser les autres vins loin derrière.

Vous trouverez les notes et les résultats de la dégustation ci-bas.

  

1er volet

Vin #1    Domaine Pégau  - "cuvée réservée"      12 votes
Vin #2    Domaine du Caillou -  "les quartz"           0 votes
Vin #3    Mont Redon                                                    0 votes
Vin #4    Clos des Papes                                              2 votes

 

Châteauneuf du Pape "Cuvée Réservée" 2005, Domaine du Pégau

Rubis, très bonne saturation. Fermé, il a besoin d'oxygène, les notes d'olive noire, de cuir et d'animal, gagnent alors des nuances graphitées et de pain grillé. La bouche est de corps moyen, assez souple, d'une belle matière fruitée, aux saveurs de mûres et de framboise, des relents épicés, les tannins se referment en arrière-palais, fine astringence, une finale chaleureuse, finement réglissée. Très bien fait.
(**** - sept./09 - Fed)

Châteauneuf du Pape "les quartz" 2005, Domaine du Caillou

Rubis-pourpre, excellente saturation. Très profond, offrant des notes de réglisse noire, d'asphalte, de prune très mûre, en évoluant, des odeurs de vernis à ongle s'y ajoutent après une longue oxygénation. La boche est dense, massive, compacte, avec des tannins serrés, mûrs, une présence beaucoup plus harmonieuse et élégante que le nez et la robe l'auraient laissé soupçonner, prune fraîche, myrtilles, chocolat crémeux, long. Un vin massif, mais étonnamment accessible. AM: jusqu'en 2020.
(**** @ **** ½ - sept./09 - Fed)

Châteauneuf du Pape 2005, Mont Redon

Rubis, très bonne saturation. Doux, mûr, dominé par des arômes vanillés assez nets, finement épicés, sur un fond de cerise mûre. Bouche très souple, bien fruitée, une matière assez glycérinée enrobe des tannins mûrs, avec des saveurs assez pures de cerise sucrée, finale de bonne fraîcheur, assez persistante. Un vin très sphérique et dodu.
(*** ½ - sept./09 - Fed)

Châteauneuf du Pape 2005, Clos des Papes

Rubis, très bonne saturation. Beau nez, subtil, assez complexe, offrant des notes d'olive, de fleurs des champs, aux nuances provençales, de bonne fraîcheur. La bouche est dense, glycérinée, avec des saveurs de cerise bien mûre, sucrée, aux relents d'épices. Plein, harmonieux et long. Il est étonnamment accessible, mais ça ne devrait pas lui empêcher de vieillir.
(**** - sept./09 - Fed)

 

2e volet

Vin #1    Tardieu-Laurent  - "vieilles vignes"                11 votes               
Vin #2    Domaine de Beaurenard  - "boisrenard"       3 votes
Vin #3    Cuvée du Vatican - "Réserve Sixtine"            0 votes
Vin #4    Domaine Cristia  - "vieilles vignes"                 0 votes  

 

Châteauneuf du Pape "vieilles vignes" 2005, Tardieu-Laurent

Produit à partir de vignes de grenache âgées d'entre 70 et 100 ans. Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation. Beau nez, marqué par un boisé fin, aux traces de mine de plomb et d'aneth, sur un fond de cerise mûre, crémeuse. La bouche est plutôt puissante, alcooleuse, d'une belle matière fruitée, dense, de bonne concentration, aux saveurs de prune et de cerise noire, ainsi que d'un fin boisé, terminant en une longue finale chaleureuse.
(**** - sept./09 - Fed)

Châteauneuf du Pape "boisrenard" 2005, Domaine de Beaurenard

Pourpre, très bonne saturation. Beau nez, pur, crémeux, aux arômes de cerise et de prune fraîche, belle pureté de fruit. Bouche dense, veloutée, d'excellente concentration, les saveurs de peau de cerise et de mûres sont d'une très belle pureté, la fermeté des tannins se manifeste en arrière-palais, longue finale de fruit noir et de réglisse. Très réussi!
(**** @ **** ½ - sept./09 - Fed)

Châteauneuf du Pape "Réserve Sixtine" 2005, Cuvée du Vatican

Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation. Premier nez un peu aigre, marqué d'odeurs salines, animales, presque de transpiration, sur un fond de prune mûre et de réglisse. Bouche d'une superbe matière, ample, veloutée, soutenue par une trame tannique plutôt ferme, traversée par une profonde minéralité qui se poursuit dans la longue finale, sur des relents de réglisse et de chocolat noir. Il aura besoin de temps pour mieux s'exprimer, mais c'est un vin très complet, viril et profond.
(****  - sept./09 - Fed)

Châteauneuf du Pape "vieilles vignes" 2005, Domaine Cristia

Une bouteille douteuse, marqué par beaucoup de volatilité, des odeurs de pruneau et de pommes macérées, avec une caractère alcooleux qui rappelle celui de certains rhums agricoles. L'attaque est marquée par des traces de CO2 résiduel, la bouche est ample et savoureuse, beaucoup de fruit noir et de prune, en une finale réglissée. Il faudra goûter une autre bouteille pour avoir l'heure juste.
(n.n.  - sept./09 - Fed)

 

 

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