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CR: Brunello di Montalcino 2004


L'arrivée récente, sur les tablettes de la SAQ, d'une vaste sélection de Brunello di Montalcino de l'excellent millésime 2004, nous a fourni le prétexte pour une très belle dégustation de vins de cette noble appellation toscane.

Noble, certainement! Mais Montalcino a aussi connu son lot de problèmes dans les dernières années. En plus de la piètre qualité des millésimes 2002 et 2003, il ne faut pas oublier le scandale des vins "corrigés" avec des cépages autres que le Sangiovese (ou Brunello, comme on l'appelle à Montalcino) qui est le seul à être autorisé par le disciplinaire de l'appellation.

Bref, l'appellation avait impérativement besoin d'un millésime de qualité pour qu'on puisse recommencer à parler des vins, plutôt que des magouilles de certains producteurs. Le millésime 2004 n'a peut-être pas été le millésime du siècle, mais il a sans doute fourni les bases pour produire des vins de grande qualité.

Les trois vins du premier volet nous ont permis de calibrer nos papilles sur la stature et la dimension de ces vins sans doute complexes, mais aussi jeunes et un peu réticents, ayant un besoin criant d'oxygène afin de pouvoir libérer leurs personnalités. La qualité somme toute homogène des vins n'a pas empêché au Brunello de la maison Val di Suga de s'imposer largement sur les deux autres candidats dans le vote du panel, devançant le Pian delle Vigne de la maison Antinori et laissant loin derrière la cuvée de base de la maison Caparzo.

Dans le deuxième volet nous avons eu droit à deux vins absolument exceptionnels: les cuvées "la casa" de Caparzo et "Tenuta nuova" de Casanova di Neri. La pureté de fruit du premier n'aura pas suffit à rivaliser avec la chatoyante modernité du deuxième qui, agrémenté d'un boisé de première classe, a finit par séduire la majorité des dégustateurs présents.

Chapeau à Giacomo Neri pour ce vin vraiment exceptionnel, peut-être un peu en contraste avec les canons de l'appellation, mais qui est exactement ce dont Montalcino avait besoin pour qu'on puisse recommencer à s'intéresser à ce qu'il y a dans la bouteille!


 

1er volet
Verre no. 1 – Pian delle vigne      4 votes
Verre no. 2 – Caparzo                   0 votes
Verre no. 3 – Val di Suga              7 votes

 

Brunello di Montalcino "Pian delle vigne" 2004, Antinori (SAQ 11097733 - 65,00$)
Rubis, très bonne saturation. Joli nez de cuir, d'épices et d'anis, sur un bon fruit de cerise. La bouche est d'assez bonne matière, avec des tannins assez fins, serrés, légèrement astringents, conférant une belle mâche au milieu de palais, avec une finale de chocolat noir qui persiste. Plutôt réussi.
(*** ½ @ **** - mai/09 - Fed)

Brunello di Montalcino 2004, Caparzo (SAQ 10270178 - 55,00$)
Rubis, très bonne saturation. Nez de chocolat noir aux épices et piment fort, sur un fond de cerise et de noix de grenoble, le fruit gagne en amplitude au fur et à mesure que le vin s'oxygène. Bouche ample, mûre, d'une trame assez serrée, tannins fermes, belle mâche, fruit de cerise, aux accents d'épices et de cuir. Il semble un peu maladroit par moments, peut-être à cause d'un léger manque de finesse, mais la base est solide et il devrait bien évoluer.
(*** ½ - mai/09 - Fed)

Brunello di Montalcino 2004, Val di Suga (SAQ 897017 - 52,00$)
Rubis, bonne saturation, reflets grenat. Premier nez légèrement chimique, aux accents de vernis, avec des traces animales, du cuir et des herbes, dans un ensemble légèrement volatil. Attaque ample, de bonne matière, mûre, presque sucrée, très épicé en milieu de palais, avec un caractère de minéral et de cendres, de bois brûlé, des tannins fermes lui conférant une bonne mâche et une finale de chocolat et de cuir. La bouche est nettement plus intéressante que le nez.
(*** ½ @ **** - mai/09 - Fed)

 

2e volet
Verre no. 1 – Cacci Piccolomini d'Aragona       0 votes
Verre no. 2 – Caparzo "la casa"                          2 votes
Verre no. 3 – Siro Pacenti                                   2 votes
Verre no. 4 – Casanova di Neri                          7 votes

 

Brunello di Montalcino 2004, Ciacci Piccolomini d'Aragona (SAQ 11039349 - 59,00$)
Rubis, très bonne saturation, reflets grenat. De bonne maturité, le nez offre néanmoins des arômes qui semblent déjà indiquer une certaine évolution, avec des notes de prune, de truffe et de cuir qui s'ajoutent à la cerise. La bouche est plutôt épicée, avec des saveurs de prune et de réglisse, dans un style un brin chaleureux et terreux, avec des tannins finement astringents.
(*** ½ - mai/09 - Fed)

Brunello di Montalcino "la casa" 2004, Caparzo (SAQ 11098752 - 93,00$)
Rubis, profond, très bonne saturation. Premier nez discret, d'épices et de musc, il développe par la suite un irrésistible fruité de cerise, mûre, crémeuse, très séduisante, aux nuances d'anis et d'herbes. La bouche est ample, mûre, très dodue et veloutée, avec une trame plus serrée en milieu de palais, de la mâche, beaucoup de finesse et des réserves importantes de fruit, avec des relents de cerise qui s'allongent en finale. Du très beau brunello!
(**** @ **** ½ - mai/09 - Fed)

Brunello di Montalcino 2004, Siro Pacenti (SAQ 10468740 - 95,00$)
Rubis, bel éclat, très bonne saturation. Discret, le nez est terreux, fumé, avec des notes de pain grillé-brûlé et de chocolat. Bouche ample, veloutée, tannins fins, astringents, belle mâche, milieu de palais savoureux, cerise noire, chocolat, épices. Un brunello de bonne maturité, mais qui ne semble pas posséder la définition et la tenue des meilleurs. Toutefois, ce pourrait être seulement un défaut de jeunesse.
(*** ½ - mai/09 - Fed)

Brunello di Montalcino "Tenuta Nuova" 2004, Casanova di Neri (SAQ 10870157 - 70,00$)
Rubis-grenat, très bonne saturation. Très moderne mais avec une indéniable finesse, il offre des arômes boisés qui laissent des traces fumées, aux relents de cola et d'épices. La bouche est ample, serrée, soyeuse, avec une fine astringence, des traces boisées, fumées, de la cerise bien mûre, du chocolat, des épices et une longue finale rassurante qui nous laisse comprendre que la grande qualité de ce vin ne repose pas uniquement sur son beau boisé.
(**** @ **** ½ - mai/09 - Fed)

 

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