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CR: Bordeaux 2005 - acte II


Une deuxième séance de dégustation avec les bordeaux du millésime 2005 qui n'a fait que confirmer la très grande réussite de ce millésime. Personnellement, je dois dire que plus je les goûte, plus je suis convaincu de l'exceptionnelle qualité et du grand potentiel de garde de ces vins. J'étais déjà entré dans le détail lors du compte-rendu de la première dégustation (voir INFO-VINS #2009/05), mais je dois réitérer qu'à mon humble avis, dans les dernières vingt années (1988 à 2008), le millésime 2005, de pair avec 1996, se situe presque à niveau avec le mythique 1990, laissant juste derrière les excellents 2000.

Dans cette dégustation, nous avons été choyé par la précocité et le charme immédiat des vins du premier volet, essentiellement des Pessac-Léognan, avec un intrus de Margaux qui s'est bien distingué par sa délicatesse. Le Carmes Haut Brion a dominé le volet en ramassant la moitié des votes exprimés par notre panel mais, dans l'ensemble, la qualité des vins était plutôt homogène.

Le deuxième volet a été un peu gâché par une bouteille légèrement défectueuse de ce qui aurait dû être le clou de la soirée, le Cos d'Estournel. Ceci a laissé le champ libre au superbe Pichon Baron, qui a presque fait l'unanimité dans le décompte des votes. Un succès bien mérité car c'est un Pauillac de grande envergure, typé, profond et faisant de très belles promesses pour le futur.


1er volet
Verre no. 1  -  Carmes Haut Brion    7 votes
Verre no. 2  -  Brane Cantenac         2 votes
Verre no. 3  -  Larrivet Haut Brion    4 votes
Verre no. 4  -  Latour Martillac          1 vote


Pessac-Léognan 2005, Château Les Carmes Haut-Brion (SAQ – 10657410 - 98,00)
Rubis, bel éclat, très bonne saturation. Le nez offre des arômes de cassis mûr, frais, avec des arômes plus fumés, minéraux, du créosote. La bouche est droite, de bonne chair, bien serrée, tendue et tissée d'une trame très fine, des saveurs de cassis et une longue finale minérale. Très réussi.
(**** - mars/09 - Fed)

Margaux 2005, Château Brane-Cantenac (SAQ 10655107 - 87,00$)
Rubis, très bonne saturation. Très joli nez, le cassis et les mûres se mêlent aux notes florales, avec un caractère fumé, minéral, évoluant vers le tabac brûlé. La bouche est ample, d'une souplesse et d'une harmonie étonnantes, très sensuel, élégant, aux tannins très fins, parfaitement enrobés dans la matière fluide et très sphérique de ce margaux très flatteur et long.
(**** - mars/09 - Fed)

Pessac-Léognan 2005, Château Larrivet Haut-Brion (SAQ 10975784 - 64,00$)
Rubis-grenat, très bonne saturation. Beau nez, dans lequel des notes de moka enrobent un caractère subtilement viandé, minéral, asphalté, évoluant vers le poivron et le champignon, avec quelque chose de légèrement faisandé. La bouche est ample, mûre, d'une matière assez riche, aux tannins très fins, légèrement astringents et une longue finale dans laquelle se mêlent des traces goudronnées et chocolatées.
(*** ½ @ **** - mars/09 - Fed)

Pessac-Léognan 2005, Château Latour Martillac  (SAQ 10657225 - 45,00$)
Rubis, bel éclat, très bonne saturation. Beau nez, de belle fraîcheur, offrant des arômes de bourgeon de cassis et de cassis mûr, avec des traces de poivron bien mûr et de cuir. La bouche est de bonne matière, droite et structurée, d'une légère austérité, probablement due à une moins bonne plénitude en milieu de palais, dotée de saveurs de cassis et de minéral qui persistent dans la bonne finale. Très classique, frais, droit, subtilement végétal. 
(*** ½ - mars/09 - Fed)

 

2e volet
Verre no. 1  -  Lagrange                                0 votes
Verre no. 2  -  Cos d'estournel (défaut)    0 votes (défectueux)
Verre no. 3  -  Pichon Baron                         13 votes
Verre no. 4  -  Langoa Barton                      1 vote

St. Julien 2005, Château Lagrange (SAQ 10661996 - 82,00$)
Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation. Bien différent de la bouteille dégustée à l'automne dernier, beaucoup moins marqué par le chêne, avec un caractère plus chaud, plus mûr, aux notes de kirsch, de cassis, d'épices, quelques traces de poivron. La bouche est dense, de très bonne matière, mûre, compacte, bien serrée, avec une structure qui s'affirme, une belle acidité et une longue finale minérale. Il sera de très bonne garde.
(**** - mars/09 - Fed)

St. Estèphe 2005, Château Cos d'Estournel (SAQ 10654657 - 303,00$)
Une bouteille malheureusement affectée par des arômes de bouchon qui masquaient l'habituelle expressivité de ce Saint Estèphe. On pouvait néanmoins apprécier sa très grande matière, sa profondeur, sa richesse et sa très longue finale chocolatée. Sans doute une immense réussite, il faudra goûter à une bouteille intègre pour en apprécier toute sa splendeur.
(mars/09 - Fed)

Pauillac 2005, Pichon Baron (SAQ 10661953 - 220,00$)
Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation. Bon nez, profond, minéral, offrant des arômes de café noir, quelques notes cuirées, animales, un fruit de prune mûre. L'attaque est ample, la bouche est dotée d'une très belle matière, dense, très minérale, des tannins fermes, bien enrobés, une belle acidité, un arrière-palais plus austère, très Pauillac, avec une longue finale très minérale. Un vin très réussi, très sérieux, qu'il faudra attendre très longtemps pour l'apprécier à son sommet. AM: 2021 – 2035.
(**** @ **** ½ - mars/09 - Fed)

St. Julien 2005, Château Langoa Barton (SAQ 10661953 - 138,00
Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation. Discret, aux nuances parfumées, fraîches, florales, sur un fond de fruit très mûr, cassis, épices. La bouche est massive, ample, très riche, sévèrement tannique, mais adoucie par une très bonne maturité d'ensemble, avec une longue finale chaleureuse et goudronnée. Un vin corsé, qui manque un peu de définition par moments. Il faudra lui laisser le temps de trouver un peu plus d'harmonie.
(*** ½ @ **** - mars/09 - Fed)

 

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