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CR: Toscane 2004 & 2005


Dans le premier volet de cette dégustation nous avions l'opportunité de comparer deux grands Nobile di Montepulciano à deux classiques de Toscane, le Montesodi de Frescobaldi et le Giorgio Primo de La Massa, tous dans l'excellent millésime 2004. Le panel a tranché nettement en faveur du Giorgio Primo, un vin qui alliait favorablement modernité et élégance (avec un peu trop de superficialité à mon goût) mais ce résultat a probablement été faussé par l'excessive exubérance du Nobile Riserva grandi Annate de la maison Avignonesi, un vin d'une intensité renversante, peut-être excessive pour le moment.

Dans le deuxième volet, la comparaison se portait sur une série de vins au style nettement plus international. Plusieurs ont d'ailleurs exprimé leur regret pour le manque de caractère de ces vins; leur qualité ne faisait aucun doute, mais leur style était un hybride entre l'européen et l'international qui, en fin de comptes, laissait planer une certaine ambiguïté quant à l'authenticité de leur caractère.  Le Ornellaia et le Ilatraia ont partagé la totalité des votes à disposition, sûrement grâce à leur élégance et à la pureté de leur fruit. Mais les deux autres vins du volet avaient bien peu de choses à leur envier.

 

1er volet
Verre no. 1 - Le Berne              3 votes
Verre no. 2 - Giorgio Primo        9 votes
Verre no. 3 - Montesodi             0 votes
Verre no. 4 - Grandi Annate       0 votes

 

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2004, Le Berne
Rubis, très bonne saturation. Bon nez, discret mais fin, avec un caractère cuiré, légèrement graphité, aux subtiles nuances florales. La bouche est de bonne matière, fine, soyeuse, avec un beau fruit de cerise, de bonne acidité, très classique mais avec une belle fraîcheur. Très réussi, il devrait s'amplifier avec le temps.
(*** ½ @ **** - fév./09 - Fed)

Giorgio Primo Toscana I.g.t. 2004, Fattoria La Massa (SAQ 10986053 - 84,75$)
Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation. Le premier nez offre des discrètes notes d'étable, qui évoluent vers le floral, le moka et le chocolat. L'attaque est de grande ampleur, la bouche possède une matière voluptueuse, très souple et veloutée, avec un milieu de palais plus serré, très fin, les saveurs de cerise gagnent des relents chocolat dans la très longue finale. Un vin très séduisant mais qui ne possède pas la profondeur et le caractère qui devraient distinguer un vin de ce prix. Il faudra voir si le temps lui apportera un peu plus de profondeur.
(*** ½ - fév./09 - Fed)

Chianti Rufina "Montesodi" 2004, Frescobaldi (SAQ 204107 - 54,50$)
Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation. Un nez plutôt capiteux, marqué de notes de confiture de prunes, de menthol et de tabac. La bouche est d'excellente matière, ample, riche, glycérinée, dotée d'une chair bien mûre, soutenue par des tannins fermes, avec des saveurs de prune, de fruits noirs et d'épices, aboutissant en une très longue finale de chocolat, aux relents de menthol. Un Montesodi au style encore un peu caricatural, mais qui semble avoir trouvé un peu plus d'harmonie depuis l'an dernier.
(*** ½ - fév./09 - Fed)

Vino Nobile di Montepulciano "Riserva grandi annate" 2004, Avignonesi (SAQ 10295981 - 89,25$)
Difficile d'écrire des notes sur un vin aussi particulier, un vin si différent de tout ce qu'on peut avoir goûté avant. La robe est assez classique, d'un beau rubis, de très bonne saturation. Le nez, par contre, est carrément renversant! Des arômes de sirop de framboise et d'éther, d'une ahurissante netteté et d'une intensité qui, à prime abord, est un peu rebutante, imaginez d'être assis à côté de quelqu'un portant trop de parfum... voilà! Après une bonne oxygénation, ce caractère de sorbet aux framboises gagne des nuances épicées et florales, mais le bouquet reste très singulier, par moments il est même difficile de croire que c'est seulement des raisins fermentés qui ont pu donner ça. La bouche est ample, bien glycérinée, assez cohérente avec le nez, avec ce caractère de framboise très net, les tannins sont fermes mais assez fins, la concentration est de première qualité avec une finale d'une longueur extraordinaire. C'est un Nobile qui possède tout ce qu'il faut pour devenir exceptionnel mais, pour y arriver, il faudra que le temps estompe l'exubérance de son fruit.
(*** ½ @ **** ½ - fév./09 - Fed)

 

2e volet
Verre no. 1 – Ornellaia               6 votes
Verre no. 2 – Ilatraia                  6 votes
Verre no. 3 – Il Blù                      0 votes
Verre no. 4 – Giusto di Notri      0 votes

 

Bolgheri superiore "Ornellaia" 2005, Tenute dell'Ornellaia
Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation. Bon nez, offrant des arômes de fruits noirs acidulés, framboises, mûres, avec quelques traces végétales, du tabac et un subtil caractère de sang de bœuf. La bouche est de très bonne matière, ample, mûre, crémeuse, bien glycérinée, d'excellente concentration, avec des tannins légèrement astringents mais très bien enrobés, un fruit crémeux et une longue finale de myrtilles et de chocolat. Très réussi, avec une pureté de fruit peut-être moins achevée que dans les meilleurs millésimes mais qui demeure néanmoins tout à fait remarquable.
(**** - fév./09 - Fed)

Ilatraia I.g.t. Toscana 2005, Fattoria La Brancaia
Un assemblage de cabernet sauvignon (60%), sangiovese (30%) et petit verdot (10%), produit dans la région de la Maremma, contrairement au "Il Blù" qui est produit dans le Chianti. Le Ilatraia 2005 est d'une robe rubis, de très bonne saturation. Joli nez, offrant des belles notes de fruits noirs, aux nuances florales, très mûr, presque confit, d'une belle douceur. La bouche est ample, bien glycérinée, d'une belle fluidité, avec une matière fruitée très souple et élégante, d'une grande maturité, avec des saveurs de mûres et de moka. Un vin très flatteur, dangereusement sucré, qui se sauve grâce à son élégance et sa fraîcheur.
(*** ½ @ **** - avr./08 - Fed)

"Il blù" I.g.t. Toscana 2005, Fattoria La Brancaia
Rubis-pourpre, très bonne saturation. Profond, mûr, avec un caractère de fruits noirs poivrés, de moka, de réglisse, de menthe fraîche et d'épices. La bouche est ample, glycérinée, avec une matière fruitée mûre, de la densité, mais aussi une très bonne tenue, grâce à des tannins assez fermes, mais bien enrobés. Longue finale réglissée, chocolatée. 
(*** ½ @ **** - avr./08 - Fed)

Giusto di Notri 2005, Tua Rita
Très mûr, très profond, avec des notes minérales évoquant l'asphalte, ainsi que des notes boisées de chêne et de moka. La bouche est ample, riche, crémeuse, avec une structure tannique légèrement astringente mais de bonne finesse, le tout étant animé par une bonne acidité, des saveurs de prune fraîche, cassis et d'épices. Un assemblage bordelais très réussi, mais à près de 100 dollars je n'hésiterais pas à me procurer un cru classé du Médoc plutôt que ce Giusto di Notri.
(*** ½ @ **** - avr./08 - Fed)


 

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