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CR: Bourgogne 2005 & '06

Les blancs 2006 et le rouges 2005 

Des chaleurs tropicales aux mois de juillet et septembre, entrecoupées par un mois d'août frais et pluvieux, ont marqué une vendange capricieuse qui aura quand même donné des blancs mûrs et charmeurs. Les bourgognes blancs 2006 sont beaucoup moins vibrants et énergiques que les splendides 2002, mais le charme des meilleurs semble indéniable. Et les meilleurs ont largement dominé ce volet de quatre vins, qui incluait trois excellents premiers crus de la Côte d'Or et, dans le rôle du vin fantôme, un très bon chardonnay piémontais du vénérable producteur Aldo Conterno.

Le Meursault-Perrières du Domaine Jacques Prieur a dominé la séance, suivi par le Chassagne Montrachet premier cru du Marquis de Laguiche. Ces deux vins ont raflé tous les votes, ne laissant même pas les miettes pour les autres vins du volet qui n'ont finalement réussi qu'à jouer un petit rôle de figurant devant la grande classe et la distinction des deux gagnants.

Dans le deuxième volet, nous faisions un dernier tour de piste avec les bourgognes rouges du millésime 2005 en revisitant quelques vins qui nous avaient séduit au printemps dernier, ainsi qu'un arrivage plus récent du Domaine Henri Gouges.

Le Chassagne Clos Saint Jean de la Maltroye a encore une fois très bien paru, mais il ne pouvait rien devant l'amplitude et la précision du Gevrey vieilles vignes de Sérafin. Comme dans le premier volet, les deux autres vins n'ont reçu aucune mention de préférence. Ce qui n'enlève rien à la qualité d'un Clos des Porrets, très austère et ayant besoin d'une longue oxygénation avant de révéler sa belle profondeur minérale. Un vin qui semble très difficile aujourd'hui mais qui pourrait accomplir d'énormes progrès avec une garde de cinq à dix ans.

 

Premier volet

Verre no. 1  -  Jobard - Genevrières     0 votes
Verre no. 2  -  Laguiche - Chassagne   5 votes
Verre no. 3  -  Conterno - Bussiador    0 votes
Verre no. 4  -  Prieur - Perrières            9 votes

 

Meursault 1er cru les genevrières 2006, Rémi Jobard (SAQ 10291147 - 89,75$)
Plutôt discret, avec des nuances florales et de lime. Bouche droite, assez longiligne et réservée, il faut la travailler longuement pour que la matière révèle son onctuosité, les saveurs d'agrumes sont très discrètes et la finale est marquée par une amertume minérale prononcée qui persiste et s'allonge sur des notes réglissées. Un vin qu'il faudra laisser vieillir. AM: 2011 @ 2016.
(*** ½ - fév./09 - Fed)

Chassagne Montrachet 1er cru Marquis de Laguiche 2006, Drouhin (SAQ 10998530 - 100,25$)
Robe dorée, pâle, aux reflets verdâtres. Très beau nez, offrant un boisé très noble, aux relents de noisette, d'épices et de moka, à travers lequel on entrevoit une fine minéralité. La bouche possède une attaque vibrante, suivie par une matière onctueuse, très élégante, aux accents de pomme, de vanille et de minéral, d'une belle pureté. Un chassagne vraiment très noble.
(**** @ **** ½ - fév./09 - Fed)

Bussiador Chardonnay Langhe 2005, Poderi Aldo Conterno (SAQ 11008585 - 48,75$)
Robe dorée, bien soutenue. Beau nez, offrant un boisé vanillé, plutôt flatteur, autour duquel se dessine une complexité appréciable, avec des notes fumées, de la noix de coco, du sucre brun et du menthol, sur un fond fruité mûr, aux relents de banane. La bouche est onctueuse, très savoureuse, avec un boisé épicé, une finale légèrement alcooleuse mais persistante. Un vin pas vraiment original, mais définitivement bien fait, offrant du plaisir et de la typicité.
(*** ½ @ **** - fév./09 - Fed)

Meursault 1er cru "Perrières" 2006, Jacques Prieur (SAQ 11029933 - 158,50$)
Robe dorée. Premier nez assez discret, sur des notes boisées somptueuses, finement beurrées, à travers lesquelles finissent par surgir une minéralité très raffinée et des fines nuances d'agrumes. La bouche est riche, d'une grande matière, qui demeure vraiment très élégante malgré sa grande onctuosité, sa concentration et ses notes beurrées, la finale est longue et accompagnée de subtiles nuances minérales et de sucre brun. C'est très cher, mais de grande qualité!
(**** @ **** ½ - fév./09 - Fed)

 


Deuxième volet

Verre no. 1  -  Gouges - Porrets               0 votes
Verre no. 2  -  Maltroye – Saint Jean       2 votes
Verre no. 3  -  Sérafin – Gevrey v. v.       12 votes
Verre no. 4  -  Maltroye – Boudriotte       0 votes

 

Nuits St. Georges "Clos des Porrets Saint Georges" Monopole 2005, Henri Gouges
Rubis profond, bonne saturation. Premier nez plutôt étrange, fermé, un peu acétique, il évolue lentement mais positivement et passe d'odeurs de vieux foudres et de fourrure animale, à un caractère assez profond de réglisse, d'asphalte, à travers lequel on perçoit quelques notes de cerises macérées. La bouche est de très bonne matière, ample, dense, structurée, avec une trame tannique ferme. Un vin austère et viril, qui a besoin d'énormément d'air pour être dégusté aujourd'hui mais qui, finalement, se goûte mieux que le nez le laisserait envisager. AM: 2015 @ 2025.
(*** @ **** - fév./09 - Fed)

Chassagne Montrachet 1er cru "Clos Saint Jean" 2005, Château de la Maltroye
Rouge-rubis, bonne saturation. Très joli nez de pinot, allègrement parfumé d'arômes de fruits rouges, avec des nuances minérales qui passent par un caractère marqué de poivre blanc, ainsi qu'une fraîcheur végétale de râfle. La bouche est de corps moyen, très expressive, très pinot, avec des tannins finement astringents et une finale de bonne longueur qui aboutit sur des relents minéraux. Belle bouteille.
(*** ½ @ **** - fév./09 - Fed)

Gevrey Chambertin vieilles vignes 2005, Sérafin
Rubis, très bonne saturation. Profond, offrant un très beau caractère de fruit noir acidulé, fumé, avec des notes minérales, il gagne des fines nuances florales en évoluant dans le verre, puis des arômes très discrets de moka. La bouche est de bonne matière, ample, assez dense, de belle acidité, avec des saveurs de fruit noir de belle pureté, ainsi qu'une finale minérale, réglissée. Un gevrey au style moderne, mais sans excès. Une très belle réussite, qui devrait bien vieillir.
(**** - fév./09 - Fed)

Chassagne Montrachet 1er cru "la Boudriotte" 2005, Château de la Maltroye
Rouge-rubis, bonne saturation. Plus mûr que le Clos Saint Jean, avec des arômes de fraises aux épices, des nuances légèrement poivrées, des traces végétales qui laissent un soupçon d'eucalyptus. Attaque assez ample, bouche poivrée, épicée, avec des saveurs de fraises et de cerises, des tannins légèrement astringents et une finale réglissée, chocolatée. Un chassagne plus chaud et moins élégant que les autres 1ers crus rouges du domaine.
(*** ½ - fév./09 - Fed)


 

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